Thursday, January 14, 2016
The Weekly Roundup: NYT Takes Two Stars Away From Per Se, 10 Conscience Free Fish Species To Eat and Your NYC Restaurant Week Guide
- At Thomas Keller’s Per Se, Slips and Stumbles: But in three meals this fall and winter, enough other things have gone awry in the kitchen and dining room to make that theory seem unlikely. Enough, also, to make the perception of Per Se as one of the country’s great restaurants, which I shared after visits in the past, appear out of date. Enough to suggest that the four-star rating it received from Sam Sifton in 2011, its most recent review in The New York Times, needs a hard look.
- Robicelli's Team Plans to Open 100 Stores Globally — Including Locations in New York: few months ago, Matt and Allison Robicelli announced plans to leave New York for Baltimore due to rising costs in the city. That's still the plan for now, but today the bakery owners announce that they're planning a whopping 100 new stores globally within the next ten years — including possible locations in New York. Allison and Matt say that they're now working with Fransmart LLC, the same company that's helped franchise expansions for restaurants like the Halal Guys, Mamoun's Falafel, and Calexico.
- Secrets of 10 Restaurant and Bar Names in NYC: In NYC, a good name can get you a long way. Dropping the right one can help you gain entry to an exclusive bar; but more importantly, if you do things right in this town, a great name defines your legacy. In a city that places so much emphasis on names, it's no surprise that restaurant owners give a lot of thought to their monikers before selecting them; and the final choices often belie a longer, more intricate personal history or inspiration. Here are NYC restaurants and bars with stories behind the signs on their doors.
- One City, 50 States: Where To Eat America's Favorite Foods In NYC. We all know New York is the city to eat any cuisine from just about anywhere in the world. But what if we wanted to stay domestic for dinner? We set out to see if we could get a taste of the most iconic dishes from every state in the US without leaving the five boroughs. Finally, a guide for transplants to get a taste of home.
- 10 Fish Species You Can Eat With a Clean Conscience: Your New Year’s resolution is to eat more fish, but which ones? Making sense of the web of fraudulent labeling, environmental concerns, and the ever-changing status of various fisheries is enough to scare anyone away from the seafood counter. The solution: Look for local, regional, and abundant species; fish whose careful farming actually helps the environment; and nonnative predators that threaten smaller fish populations.
- How to Make Eggs: More than any other ingredient, eggs travel smoothly from breakfast to lunch to dinner. They can turn a dish into a meal (perched on seasonal greens, grain dishes or pasta) or they can be the meal themselves (omelets, frittatas and more). At their simplest, eggs are creamy little packages of luxury requiring nothing more than salt to shine. At the end of a busy day, take 5 minutes to poach or fry one, put it on top of a salad or yesterday’s roasted vegetables or rice pilaf, and sit down to dinner.
- America’s Essential Restaurants 2016: This year's job was no less ambitious: Just as the 38 lists on Eater's city-specific sites grow and change with their restaurant scenes, editors rotating out some quality restaurants and introducing fresh names to the roster, so does this one. There's no shortage of outstanding places in every tier of every scene that help answer the question, "What is essential dining?" Still, some kitchens speak more clearly to this moment than others.
- What Hundred-Dollar Price Hikes at Per Se and Momofuku Ko Mean for the Future of Dining: Eater's critic looks at how restaurants are raising their prices and what that means for guests.
|Atlantic Spiny Dogfish|
- New York's newest Restaurant Row is in the West Village as a Tom Colicchio-backed spot is the latest set to open: Hip eateries are sprouting like artisan mushrooms across Greenwich Ave., between 6th and 7th Aves., a West Village strip once dotted with tanning salons and schlocky bars.
- Dominique Ansel and Wylie Dufresne Are Collaborating on a Breakfast Sandwich: From this Saturday, January 16, to Monday, January 18, Dominique Ansel Kitchen (the one in the West Village) will serve a special "wd~Ansel Egg Melt," a sandwich with soft-scrambled eggs, a confit egg yolk, homemade cheese, black truffles (!), bacon, and maple flakes. It's served on a smoked English muffin, with truffled hash browns on the side, and it costs $20.
- David Bowie's favourite place in the city he called home. It was, according to David Bowie himself, his most favoured place in the city he came to call home. Washington Square Park, surrounded by trees, centred by a foundation and overlooked by an archway that commemorates America’s first president, lies just a half-mile walk from the musician’s Soho home.
- 5 things you didn’t know about your favorite Oreos: These iconic cookies have been incorporated in almost every food, from milk, caramel, cupcakes and so on. But here we have five things which may have gone unnoticed or probably you didn’t know about Oreos.
- What to Eat at Momofuku Nishi, Dave Chang’s New ‘Noodle Joint’: “Trying not to use Italian ingredients to make Italian food is sort of the unwritten rule,” says Dave Chang of his new Chelsea restaurant, Momofuku Nishi.
- Noho French Sleeper Le Philosophe to Close This Weekend: After service on Saturday, Amadeus Broger will shutter his Noho French restaurant, Le Philosophe. Broger and his team are not leaving the space entirely, though. In the spring the restaurant will reopen with a new identity, although no word yet on what type of food it will serve. In a message about the closure, the management notes: "We plan to re-open in the same location this spring with a new concept that we think will be really exciting."
- Mulberry Project's Italian Spinoff Aunt Jake's to Open Later this Week: Nick Boccio, owner of Mulberry Project and Greenwich Project, will open a new casual Italian restaurant this week called Aunt Jake's. Located at 151 Mulberry, next to the Mulberry Project, it will feature Italian fare and counter service.
- Where to Dine During NYC Restaurant Week: Winter 2016. Il Buco Alimentari: Not content to draw the line at lunch, this utterly charming Italian restaurant & market is actually offering a $25 feast during brunch as well. So while the midday dishes sound incredibly appealing — think Cauliflower Soup, Chocolate Budino and Strozzapreti Bolognese — why not rise and shine for the early morning menu, featuring Poached Farm Eggs with anchovies, Skate Wing with potatoes and peperoncino, and housemade Gelato and Sorbetti for dessert?
- Breakroom Serves the Hamburger of the Future: On Baxter Street, in the shadow of the court building and above the "tombs" where the freshly incarcerated spend their first night, sits a quirky little restaurant called Breakroom. Occupying a postage stamp sized space between a bail bond office and an acupuncturist, Breakroom reminds me of Crif Dog in the East Village, both in terms of its chaotic interior design (right down to the lack of a bathroom) and menu choices.
- GO DOWN TO CHINATOWN ON A SHOPPING TOUR WITH CHEF ANITA LO: On a particularly cold and wet late-December afternoon, chef Anita Lo is looking for sea bass. Potato leaves, too, to finish off a mackerel dish. Her purveyor shorted her on the sea bass and the potato leaves weren’t quite the quality she requires so, as she often does, Lo biked down from her West Village restaurant, Annisa, to Grand Street in Chinatown, to hunt for them.
- THE 11 GREATEST PIZZA PLACES IN BROOKLYN: Pizza addiction is a legit phenomenon, and objectively speaking, no city's been hit harder by the pizza epidemic than NYC. But, since we're already guilty of enabling said addiction, we figured we'd double down and bring you the 11 best pie-slinging spots in Spike Lee's favorite borough: Brooklyn.